India Travel

Sprawling Maharashtra, India’s second most populous state, stretches from the gorgeous greens of the little-known Konkan Coast right into the parched innards of India’s beating heart. Within this massive framework are all the sights, sounds, tastes, and experiences of India.

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The last of the four main pilgrimage sites marking Buddha’s life – the others are Lumbini (Nepal), Bodhgaya and Sarnath – Kushinagar is where Buddha died, breathing his last words: ‘All things must pass. Work out your own salvation with diligence’. According to a Buddhist text, when he died ‘the earth shook, stars shot from the heavens, the sky in the 10 directions burst forth in flames and the air filled with celestial music’. Devotees from several countries have built temples here to accommodate monks and the pilgrims who visit this holy site. The sites of interest are strung out along Buddha Marg, a peaceful, green area of town with a suitably reverent atmosphere.

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With its mind-bending diversity - from snowcapped mountains to sun-washed beaches, crusty old bazaars to chichi designer boutiques, tranquil temples to feisty festivals, ramshackle rural villages to techno-savvy urban hubs - it’s hardly surprising that India has been dubbed the planet’s most multidimensional country.

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When it comes to splendid isolation, Zanskar is about as isolated as you can get. This rugged Buddhist valley can only be reached by an arduous week-long trek or a 14-hour drive along a pitted and potholed track along the Suru River. Although Zanskar is administered from Kargil, the people of the valley are predominantly Buddhist. The valley even has its own king, though the role is mainly ceremonial.

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Loveable Yuksom is historic and charming. It’s the main trailhead for the Khangchendzonga Trek, but, lacking direct views of the high mountains, has thus far been spared the rapacious development that’s overwhelming Pelling. The Community Information Centre (per hr Rs 50; 10am-1pm & 3-5pm) offers internet connection in an unlikely hut near Kathok Lake.

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This is the western reach of India’s most touristed state, and it’s worth the trek. Azure Jodhpur will give you the blues in a completely new way, but it’s nothing a camel trek to fairytale Jaisalmer won’t cure.

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Although permits aren’t usually needed, there are tribal areas in western and central Orissa where foreigners have to register their details with the police. This is all done for you if you are on a tour but independent visitors should check their plans with the police in the nearest city.

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Western Madhya Pradesh includes the holy cities of Ujjain, one of the sites of the Kumbh Mela, and Maheshwar as well as the holy island of Omkareshwar on the sacred Narmada River. It is also home to Mandu which offers one of India’s finest examples of Afghan architecture.

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Western Himachal Pradesh is famous as the home of the Tibetan government in exile, close to Dharamsala. The official website for Kangra district is hpkangra.nic.in.

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Culturally magical and scenically spectacular, a mountain-hopping journey to Tawang’s ‘little Tibet’ is one of the northeast’s greatest attractions. Ideally budget at least five days’ return from Guwahati (or Tezpur) breaking the journey each way at Dirang or less interesting Bomdila. Consider stopping at Nameri’s wonderful Eco-Camp, too. Be prepared for intense cold in winter.

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Sikkim’s greatest tourist draw is simply staring at Khangchendzonga, white-peaked magnificence from Pelling. Most visitors then add excursions to nearby waterfalls and monasteries, plus perhaps a spot of walking. Some lovely one-day hikes start from the charming village of Yuksom. That’s also the trailhead for serious multiday group-trek expeditions to Dzongri (group trekking permits required).

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