The Kamasutra carvings that swathe Khajuraho’s three groups of temples are among the finest temple art in the world. While many travellers take a quick peek at the sensuous sculptures as a stop-off between Agra and Varanasi, those who linger discover a spiritual but modern spot where everything from yoga to folk dancing can be [...]
The capital of Lahaul sprawls along one side of the green Bhaga Valley, spread out below the Manali–Leh highway. It’s a friendly little town that has experienced a major economic boom since it became the main overnight stop for buses travelling between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Many travellers stop just for the night and leave [...]
Kerala is where India slips down into second gear, stops to smell the roses and always talks to strangers. A strip of land between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats, its perfect climate flirts unabashedly with the fertile soil, and everything glows. An easy-going and successful socialist state, Kerala has a liberal hospitality that [...]
By far the best time to visit this park (Indian/foreigner Rs 25/200, video Rs 200; 6am-6pm Apr-Sep, 6.30am-5pm Oct-Mar) is October to February, when you’ll see many migratory birds. At other times, it can be dry and relatively bird-free.
Assam’s must-do attraction is a rhinoceros-spotting safari in the expansive flat grasslands of Kaziranga National Park (1 Nov-30 Apr, elephant rides 5.30am & 6.30am, jeep access 7.30-10.30am & 2.30-5pm). Kaziranga’s population of around 1800 Indian one-horned rhinos (up from just 200 in 1904) represents over two-thirds of the world’s total. There are several ‘ranges’, but [...]
Sprawling over the eroded flood plain of the Spiti River, Kaza is the administrative and transport hub of Spiti subdistrict. The setting is wonderfully rugged – jagged mountains rise on either side and the river coils across the flat valley floor like a python with indigestion. The original, whitewashed village is separated from the modern [...]
Perched high on a forest-covered ridge, this tiny village has lovely panoramic views of distant snow-capped peaks, fresh air, a cool climate and as relaxed an atmosphere as you’ll find in northern India. Mahatma Gandhi found Kausani an inspirational place to retreat and write his Bhagavad Gita translation Anasakti Yoga and there is still an [...]
Kasol is the main traveller HQ in the Parvati Valley. It’s like Vashisht or Old Manali but more so, with dozens of reggae bars, traveller restaurants, internet cafés, body-piercing studios and cheap guesthouses. You’ll either love it or loathe it. The nicest places to stay are in Old Kasol on the Bhuntar side of the [...]
The Karnataka Coast runs from Mangalore in the south on the border with Kerala all the way to Gokarna in the north. This area includes destinations such as Udupi in the south and Jog Falls and Murudeshwar in the north.
If you’re looking for variety in your Indian travel experience, Karnataka fits the bill nicely. The state’s capital and international entry point is the IT powerhouse of Bengaluru (Bangalore), a modern, energetic city best savoured for its restaurants and shops. Ancient architectural gems are abundant, including the World Heritage–listed monuments of Hampi and Pattadakal. Practically [...]