Around 24km southwest of Mandi, the sacred lake of Rewalsar is revered by Buddhists, Hindus and Sikhs. The Indian monk Padmasambhava departed from Rewalsar in the 8th century AD to spread Buddhism to Tibet, and Hindus, Buddhists and Sikhs came together here in the 17th century to plan their resistance against ethnic cleansing by the [...]
Rekong Peo is the main administrative centre for Kinnaur and an important transport hub, but there’s little to delay the traveller for longer than it takes to arrange the permit for onward travel to Tabo in Spiti. A steep walk above town near the radio mast is the Kinnaur Kalachakra Celestial Palace (Mahabodhi Gompa), with [...]
Rapidly expanding Ravangla is spectacularly perched overlooking a wide sweep of western Sikkim, the gompas of Old Ralang, Tashiding, Pemayangtse and Sangachoeling, all distantly visible against a horizon that’s sawtoothed with snow-capped peaks.
Infamous, spectacular Ranthambore National Park (Indian/foreigner Rs 25/200; Oct-Jun) is 1334 sq km of wild jungle scrub hemmed in by rocky ridges. At its centre is the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, and scattered nearby are ancient temples and mosques, crocodile-filled lakes, chhatris (cenotaphs) and hides. The park was a maharajas’ hunting ground till 1970 – a [...]
Ranikhet, home to the Kumaon Regiment and bristling with good old-fashioned military atmosphere, spreads over rolling green hills with some lovely views over the distant Himalaya. The focus of the town is a busy bazaar area, but you don’t have to walk far along the winding Mall Rd to be immersed in forest and tall [...]
Jharkhand’s capital, Ranchi was once the summer capital of Bihar under the British – set on a plateau at about 700m, it’s marginally cooler than the plains. For travellers there’s not a lot of interest in the city and it’s not really on the way to anywhere – the only real reason for landing here [...]
The gateway to Kinnaur, this nondescript town was once the capital of the Bushahr rajas. Today, Rampur is mainly a place to change buses or break the journey from Shimla to Rekong Peo. Many drunk truck drivers stop here overnight, creating quite a threatening atmosphere, particularly for single women. Most places to stay are below [...]
Rameswaram is one of the most significant pilgrimage centres in South India for both Shaivites and Vaishnavaites. It was here that Rama (an incarnation of Vishnu and hero of the Ramayana) offered thanks to Shiva. At the town’s core is the Ramanathaswamy Temple, one of the most important temples in India, and here you’ll see [...]
This former capital of the princely state of Saraushtra has matured into the second city of Gujarati affairs. Once a base for the Western States British government office, Rajkot rapidly expanded into a prosperous, lively business centre, with an evocative old city. It’s also a testament to modern Gujarat, where farmers sell ghee on street [...]
Set among bushland and surrounded by five rocky hills, each lined with vestiges of ancient cyclopean walls, is the ancient capital of the Magadha kingdom, known today as Rajgir. Thanks to both Buddha and Mahavira spending some serious time here, Rajgir is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Jains. A mention in the Mahabharata [...]